---
product_id: 1151547
title: "R1100M Monoblock Car Amplifier - 1100 High Output, 2-8 Ohm Stable, Low/High Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover, MOSFET Power Supply"
brand: "boss audio systems"
price: "KSh38524"
currency: KES
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 10
category: "Boss Audio Systems"
url: https://www.desertcart.co.ke/products/1151547-r1100m-monoblock-car-amplifier-1100-high-output-2-8-ohm
store_origin: KE
region: Kenya
---

# 1100W max power output 2-8 Ohm stable for versatile setups Remote subwoofer control included R1100M Monoblock Car Amplifier - 1100 High Output, 2-8 Ohm Stable, Low/High Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover, MOSFET Power Supply

**Brand:** boss audio systems
**Price:** KSh38524
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🎵 Elevate your drive with bass that speaks louder than words!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** R1100M Monoblock Car Amplifier - 1100 High Output, 2-8 Ohm Stable, Low/High Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover, MOSFET Power Supply by boss audio systems
- **How much does it cost?** KSh38524 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.co.ke](https://www.desertcart.co.ke/products/1151547-r1100m-monoblock-car-amplifier-1100-high-output-2-8-ohm)

## Best For

- boss audio systems enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted boss audio systems brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Flexible Compatibility:** 2-8 Ohm stability ensures seamless integration with a wide range of subwoofers and speaker systems.
- • **Precision Sound Tuning:** Customize your audio with variable low pass crossover and bass boost for that perfect thump.
- • **Smart & Safe Operation:** Built-in thermal, short, and overload protection keeps your system running smooth and worry-free.
- • **Effortless Control On-The-Go:** Adjust your bass levels remotely with the included subwoofer control—because your vibe deserves convenience.
- • **Power That Commands Attention:** Unleash 1100 Watts of pure bass-driven energy to transform your ride into a mobile concert.

## Overview

The BOSS Audio Systems R1100M is a compact yet powerful Class A/B monoblock amplifier delivering up to 1100 Watts max output at 2 Ohms. Designed for versatile car audio setups, it supports 2-8 Ohm loads and features a MOSFET power supply for efficient performance. With customizable low pass crossover, bass boost, and remote subwoofer control, it offers precise sound tuning. Safety is prioritized through thermal, short, and overload protection circuits. Backed by a 6-year warranty (when purchased via desertcart.com), this amplifier is ideal for millennials seeking an affordable, high-impact audio upgrade that commands attention on every drive.

## Description

Shift your audio experience up a gear with the Boss Audio Riot R1100M Class A/B Monoblock Amplifier. This powerful 2-Ohm stable amplifier features 1100 Watts Max Power with a MOSFET power supply to rock your tunes. Customize the sound with Variable Low Pass Crossover and Bass Boost. Tweak the Bass and feel the vibes with the Remote Subwoofer Control. Amplifiers in the Riot Series are perfect for first time car audio buyers looking to add Bass, enhanced sound and performance to their system at an affordable price. Drive up the beat with the Boss Audio R1100M. For further product details, please scroll down.

Review: Great little amp for the money - Components installed: - One Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 10-inch shallow loaded enclosure - Kenwood KDC-BT555U receiver/head - Boss R1100M monoblock amp - Sirius/XM SXV-200v1 tuner - Metra single DIN faceplate kit - Metra wiring harness adapter I wanted to use a local business for this installation, but they quoted me $750 to install $250 worth of components. So I decided to order the stuff from desertcart and do it myself. I got a much better head, a better amp, the Sirius/XM tuner (not included in the quote from the local vendor) and the same subwoofer/enclosure for less than $350. It took me parts of three days to do the install, but it was fun, I learned a lot, and I do quality work (even if I do say so myself). The bottom line is, the system sounds awesome. I had already upgraded the stock Infinity speakers in the front and rear doors with a set of Boston Acoustic speakers. I did this a few years ago when the stock speakers got wet or rotted and started buzzing. This gave me a tinny sound that had very little low end. That and the fact that I could not use my iPhone with this system finally prompted me to upgrade. I had never installed an amp before and didn't have the first idea what would be required. Luckily a lot of info is available on the Internet that makes this stuff doable. The local installer had told me that this size subwoofer enclosure would fit behind the smaller driver-side rear seat in my Dakota Quad Cab, but that turned out to be incorrect. The alternative is to spend an additional $200-$300 to purchase a molded enclosure, plus the cost of the actual subwoofer. So I decided to locate the enclosure on the rear floorboard, snugged up against the middle console, facing backwards. I am still in the process of trying to decide how to anchor it there--it's dangerous to have something that heavy not properly anchored down, as it could become the source of severe head trauma in a crash. I am thinking I'll probably use some combination of velcro and home-made brackets. The one thing I have noticed is that, if it is placed directly against the back of the console, the console will not lift up and out of the way in the front seat. This is a problem for me, because that's usually where I place my Glock when I'm transporting it but want to keep it out of view.. But, from a rear-seat occupant perspective, this configuration allows two people to still ride comfortably in the back, though it does extend slightly into each occupant's knee space. It pretty much makes the middle seat unusable though, so if you need that much passenger room, you will need to spring for the molded enclosures that fits under that seat. Luckily I rarely have passengers riding in the back. The hardest thing about the install was running the 8-guage power supply from the battery through the firewall into the pax compartment. Using Internet research, I located the wiring harness grommet on the driver's side, and was able to use a coathanger to get the wire through. I pushed the coathanger through and then electrical-taped the 8-guage power supply wire to the other end of the coathanger. First time it came loose, but second attempt worked like a charm. The wiring harness kit was pretty simple. The order is Kenwood wiring harness-->adapter kit from desertcart-->factory connections in my truck. The wiring is almost idiot-proof as it is pretty much color-to-color. The only discretion involved my truck's OEM amplifier--I needed to connect its control wire and the new amp's control wire to the single P-CONT wire from the new harness. If you understand that all these wires do is turn on the amps when the radio is powered up and turn them off again when the head unit is off, it's a no-brainer to figure out you just need to wire both control wires to this same wire in the harness. To test the connections, I twisted all the wires together and electrical-taped them. Once I confirmed everything was working, I took the harnesses back into my house and soldered them and used rubber heat shrink around the soldered connections. I prefer that to the cheap crimp connectors included in the 1100 amp wiring kit I purchased at Walmart. The one thing that nearly threw me off was the amp's "Protection" light that illuminated after I cleaned everything up and put the trim back on the interior of my truck. Luckily, I was able to search the desertcart user comments and learned that an improperly grounded amp is one of the causes. Sure enough, I removed the piece of trim under which I had connected the 8-guage ground wire to the body of the truck with a screw and saw that I had jarred loose the ground wire when I snapped that piece of trim back in. My advice is, if you get a "Protection" light on this amp, check the ground wire connection before you do anything else. I am amazed at the quality of the sound. The bass is amazing and it's almost like having a new truck. I highly recommend these components.
Review: Very good quality - This works great not easy for me to install but i got someone else to to put in but works awesome

## Features

- DIMENSIONS: 10.43" x 9.21" x 2.25", WEIGHT: 4.37 lbs
- SPECS: Monoblock, Class A/B, 2Ω Stable, MOSFET Power Supply, 1100 Max x 1 @ 2 Ohms, 550 Max x 1 @ 4 Ohms
- SPECS CONT'D: Low Pass Filter, Bass Boost, Input Sensitivity, Illuminated Logo, Thermal, Short and Overload Protection Circuits, Remote Subwoofer Control
- INPUTS/OUTPUTS: RCA & Speaker Level Inputs
- WARRANTY: BOSS Audio Systems provides a powerful 6-year platinum online dealer warranty so long as the purchase is made through desertcart.com. We strongly encourage professional installation of this product to ensure proper and safe functionality

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B004S4XNEO |
| Best Sellers Rank | #4,198 in Electronics ( See Top 100 in Electronics ) #3 in Car Mono Amplifiers |
| Brand | BOSS Audio Systems |
| Color | Black |
| Customer Reviews | 4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars (13,814) |
| Date First Available | March 15, 2011 |
| Department | car audio |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00791489115209 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Weight | 4.37 pounds |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 9.21 x 10.43 x 2.24 inches |
| Item model number | R1100M |
| Manufacturer | BOSS Audio Systems |
| Material | Metal |
| Maximum Output Power | 1100 watts |
| Maximum Supply Voltage | 12 Volts |
| Minimum Supply Voltage | 12 Volts |
| Mounting Type | Car Mount |
| Number of Channels | 1 |
| Other display features | Wireless |
| Output Power | 1100 Watts |
| Package Type Name | amplifier |
| Product Dimensions | 9.21 x 10.43 x 2.24 inches |
| Special features | Radio |
| Specification Met | FCC |
| UPC | 791489115209 |
| Whats in the box | Boss Audio R1100M Riot 1100-Watt Monoblock, Class A/B 2-8 Ohm Stable Monoblock Amplifier, High Input Cable With Connector, Instruction Manual, Mounting Screws, Remote Subwoofer Level Control |

## Product Details

- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 9.21 x 10.43 x 2.24 inches
- **Manufacturer:** BOSS Audio Systems
- **Maximum Supply Voltage:** 12 Volts
- **Minimum Supply Voltage:** 12 Volts
- **Mounting Type:** Car Mount

## Images

![R1100M Monoblock Car Amplifier - 1100 High Output, 2-8 Ohm Stable, Low/High Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover, MOSFET Power Supply - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/812agfYo5+L.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Color** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: why do i need an amp if i'm getting subwoofers?**
A: @Brian D- not at all true or accurate response. However. the rest of the responses to the question here are factual, supporting that a power source is needed to drive a subwoofer and even most woofer/ midrange drivers of any respectable size and output.

**Q: does it break easily**
A: I am running a infinity 1264 reference at 300 rms 1 cu ft sealed enclosure for a year now , hits hard and true .... dont listen to haters who spend $$$$$$ lol

**Q: will this work with a single 10" Boss Phantom?**
A: Question;  Why wont my 1,100 watt peak mono amp drive my 3,500 watt speakers..(2x3500)=7,000Peak=3500 Rms/ 1100 watt peak mono amp = 550 Rms.  SPEAKERS NEED 7 times the power youre giving them.

Go with lower wattage speakers, 600Rms watt max  and 1100 peak = 550Rms amp =  



 1100 peak watts= 550 RMS....Real world numbers are more like 275-325 RMS from the amplifier.

  Same with speakers.  3500 peak = 1750 RMS/2=875-925 RMS.... Either way if you underpower your speakers ,or overload your amp Its not going to work correctly.

  Dont forget ,it's a SYSTEM.  Everything must be compatible and work together to make the System a success.   

  Your 1100 watt mono block ,in reality ,will pump around 275-325 into a single sub, comfortably... Therefore you'd be better off getting a 1000 watt peak power handling Single voice coil sub. That's 200-350 W.RMS max . Allowing for decreased amp output to around 3/4 below max gain to avoid audio clipping and eliminating the chance of possible distortion and ultimately, speaker failure.

  You'll want a speaker with a sensitivity rating of 88 or higher. 1w/1m is how its measured. 1w tone at 1 meter away = 88db of volume.(Higher is better 93-94 is ideal . This means it takes less power to generate sound. Your amp will not have to struggle and will perform flawlessly at lower ,as well as higher volume levels.  

   Amp output and speaker input should be matched as closely as possible with the amp gain at 3/4 below max gain .  Most mono blocks have a remote gain control. You'll use that to fine tune the bass after initially tuning the amp to 75% gain, and connecting all speakers, The goal is to find the "sweet spot" where you hear all speakers equally.

  Incorporating carefully tuned ports and a series of baffles to maximize sound output using the enclosure its self to acoustically amplify the sound and to project that sound at precisely the same moment as the identical sound is projected from the front of the speaker system,  Offers an incredibly wide sound stage virtually surrounding the listener in 360 degree full range sound , like you were right there!. At any volume level..  

     Here's how we design our systems.

    To get the widest frequency range  possible on the sub bass spectrum, (~20- ~100 Hz, We use an accoustically tuned subwoofer enclosure. Custom built in house.

  (Think acoustic guitar, cello, violin, brass instruments ,even drums ,all resonate internally, meaning the sound is produced , then amplified natrualy  inside the "box." Our enclosure, with added mid bass driver and seperately ported, even reaches the higher "Speech" and "stringed instrument range of ~80~700Hz "  

  The Bass port is tuned to frequency down to the 'Fs' (resonant frequency) of the driver. Creating a slow dropoff down to8 hz below Fs. up to ~90hz!   Our System utilizes much lower amplifier wattage requirement due to the enhancement of otherwise unused sound, 

 accousticaly disbursed and exiting to the rear of the driver. Our design channels the rear sound from the  

driver  through a tuned series of ports to amplify and deepen the tone of the accoustic waves that would otherwise be lost or heard as distortion or other unwanted resonances. 

   With mid range drivers covering the  spectrum between ~90Hz and ~700-~1KHz. And  the use of high quality pizeo tweeters , for higher frequencies, around 1K to 15-18Khz  (Tweeters are independently adjustable with dedicated Fender Original volume controls.)

 effectively covering the 20Hz to 20Khz "RANGE OF HUMAN HEARING". A pair of small satttelite speakers add even more to the sound stage with the ability to be positioned on either side of the main unit(s). 4" full range drivers also ported, and tuned to~=/-500Hz to 800Hz  as well as 3" midrange drivers to reinforce the mid ~700-15Khz range .

**Q: will this work a two  Rockford Fosgate Prime R1S412 R1 12-Inch 150 Watt Subwoofer - 4 Ohm**
A: Yes,and i wouldnt worry about too much about overpowering them either. The RF sub is a 150rms with 300 watts of peak power . this amp says 1100watts peak power at "2ohms" all that means is it can give you that boost in short tiny bursts and from previous issues with boss quality likely not at all. It will probably overheat first and go in protect mode. But since that Rf sub is a 4ohm svc it shouldnt matter really .according to these amps specs its says 413 rms @ 4 ohms , which imo is bologna . i own this amp and max at 4 ohms @14.4v ill say 175rms max. Actually i wouldnt even buy this amp if i were you . but if its too late just dont turn gain all the way up and all other bass settings all the way up itll be fine . .

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great little amp for the money
*by G***N on September 3, 2013*

Components installed: - One Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 10-inch shallow loaded enclosure - Kenwood KDC-BT555U receiver/head - Boss R1100M monoblock amp - Sirius/XM SXV-200v1 tuner - Metra single DIN faceplate kit - Metra wiring harness adapter I wanted to use a local business for this installation, but they quoted me $750 to install $250 worth of components. So I decided to order the stuff from Amazon and do it myself. I got a much better head, a better amp, the Sirius/XM tuner (not included in the quote from the local vendor) and the same subwoofer/enclosure for less than $350. It took me parts of three days to do the install, but it was fun, I learned a lot, and I do quality work (even if I do say so myself). The bottom line is, the system sounds awesome. I had already upgraded the stock Infinity speakers in the front and rear doors with a set of Boston Acoustic speakers. I did this a few years ago when the stock speakers got wet or rotted and started buzzing. This gave me a tinny sound that had very little low end. That and the fact that I could not use my iPhone with this system finally prompted me to upgrade. I had never installed an amp before and didn't have the first idea what would be required. Luckily a lot of info is available on the Internet that makes this stuff doable. The local installer had told me that this size subwoofer enclosure would fit behind the smaller driver-side rear seat in my Dakota Quad Cab, but that turned out to be incorrect. The alternative is to spend an additional $200-$300 to purchase a molded enclosure, plus the cost of the actual subwoofer. So I decided to locate the enclosure on the rear floorboard, snugged up against the middle console, facing backwards. I am still in the process of trying to decide how to anchor it there--it's dangerous to have something that heavy not properly anchored down, as it could become the source of severe head trauma in a crash. I am thinking I'll probably use some combination of velcro and home-made brackets. The one thing I have noticed is that, if it is placed directly against the back of the console, the console will not lift up and out of the way in the front seat. This is a problem for me, because that's usually where I place my Glock when I'm transporting it but want to keep it out of view.. But, from a rear-seat occupant perspective, this configuration allows two people to still ride comfortably in the back, though it does extend slightly into each occupant's knee space. It pretty much makes the middle seat unusable though, so if you need that much passenger room, you will need to spring for the molded enclosures that fits under that seat. Luckily I rarely have passengers riding in the back. The hardest thing about the install was running the 8-guage power supply from the battery through the firewall into the pax compartment. Using Internet research, I located the wiring harness grommet on the driver's side, and was able to use a coathanger to get the wire through. I pushed the coathanger through and then electrical-taped the 8-guage power supply wire to the other end of the coathanger. First time it came loose, but second attempt worked like a charm. The wiring harness kit was pretty simple. The order is Kenwood wiring harness-->adapter kit from Amazon-->factory connections in my truck. The wiring is almost idiot-proof as it is pretty much color-to-color. The only discretion involved my truck's OEM amplifier--I needed to connect its control wire and the new amp's control wire to the single P-CONT wire from the new harness. If you understand that all these wires do is turn on the amps when the radio is powered up and turn them off again when the head unit is off, it's a no-brainer to figure out you just need to wire both control wires to this same wire in the harness. To test the connections, I twisted all the wires together and electrical-taped them. Once I confirmed everything was working, I took the harnesses back into my house and soldered them and used rubber heat shrink around the soldered connections. I prefer that to the cheap crimp connectors included in the 1100 amp wiring kit I purchased at Walmart. The one thing that nearly threw me off was the amp's "Protection" light that illuminated after I cleaned everything up and put the trim back on the interior of my truck. Luckily, I was able to search the Amazon user comments and learned that an improperly grounded amp is one of the causes. Sure enough, I removed the piece of trim under which I had connected the 8-guage ground wire to the body of the truck with a screw and saw that I had jarred loose the ground wire when I snapped that piece of trim back in. My advice is, if you get a "Protection" light on this amp, check the ground wire connection before you do anything else. I am amazed at the quality of the sound. The bass is amazing and it's almost like having a new truck. I highly recommend these components.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Very good quality
*by S***A on January 30, 2026*

This works great not easy for me to install but i got someone else to to put in but works awesome

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Awesome quality as a starter amp! 2 year later review
*by T***N on December 27, 2024*

I purchased this amp with a gift card to power 2 Kicker CompR 10" 2 Ohm dual voice coil woofers in a sealed box running at a total of 2 Ohms. I listen to alot of R&B, techno, and deep heavy bass music in a 2017 Mazda 3. I initially purchased this amp as a very cheap (basically free from a christmas giftcard) beginner amp with the intention to purchase a new amp once this one failed..... WELL, 2 years later and it is still going strong as ever!! It works and provides what it is supposed to do, MORE BASS! ****Nit picks about the amp**** -It is no where near 1100 watts! Alot of reviews show this amp really caps at 200 watts. So, at most 100 Watts per 10" CompR woofer in my set up. It has been great and plenty loud enough for just some extra bass support. -I found I kept driving the gain a little higher trying to get more output but this amp just could not dish it out with out distorting. I only say that to be mindful that that this amp will not be rattling the neighbors windows or really even bothering the other cars next to you. I will be audible outside the vehicle but nothing really aggressively obnoxious. -It is a class A/B amplifier so it does draw more power when turned full set volume , but only enough to make my headlights dip a small amount very quickly. So, If you are wanting just some extra low end support with out spending to much! I would 100% recommend this! I only rate it 4 stars because of the false claim of 1100 watts from BOSS, not really any issue with the seller or product.

## Frequently Bought Together

- BOSS Audio Systems R1100M Monoblock Car Amplifier - 1100 High Output, 2-8 Ohm Stable, Low/High Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover, MOSFET Power Supply
- BOSS Audio Systems KIT2 8 Gauge Complete Car Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit with Power Cables, Ground Cables, Turn-On Wire, Speaker Wire, Terminals
- Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series Stereo Line-Output Converter w/Remote Turn-On Output

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---

*Product available on Desertcart Kenya*
*Store origin: KE*
*Last updated: 2026-02-26*